My life is split between two places. I live in Encinitas and work at the Surf Ranch, about 5 hours northeast from there, in Lemoore. I spend half my time in Lemoore and the other half in Encinitas or wherever the waves are best that week.
I am one of the surf coaches at the wave pool and my days at work are always filled with frothing people. In the mornings we will help guests prepare for their surf sessions by giving them the rundown of the wave, the different profiles we can offer and all the nuances that come with it. Once we are in the water half of the job becomes calming people down, as it can be a little bit of a pressure cooker once it is your turn for the wave. The rest of the time is spent watching people surf with the biggest smiles on their faces and giving them high fives and feedback after their waves.
After the first session we will do video review with the guests and dissect all their waves. The second session always goes better than the first as the wave can be a little tricky to learn in the beginning. The day always wraps up with smiles and beers in the jacuzzi!
It’s funny; what I love the most about surfing is what, some may argue, wave pools take out of the experience: the exploration and journey for finding pumping waves. There is nothing more fun and rewarding in the world to me than going on trips with friends and finding epic waves; Whether it be driving around California or flying to the other side of the world, half the fun is the trip you take and the people you meet. Chasing surf has led me to so many places and been the beginning of so many life long friends that I may have never met otherwise.
I do travel a lot. I try to be mindful about what I eat when I am on the road and always stay hydrated. As I have started to get older I have began to realize how important stretching and staying limber really is. I do not technically do yoga but I do try to stretch every day. I think a mixture of both static and dynamic stretching can be really good for you.
The climate crisis to me means innovation. That is the only way to beat it. It can be an exciting time for new technologies in the clean energy field. There is a big hole to dig ourselves out of, and a lot of big money companies with the wrong mindsets to fight, however with enough support for new clean energy I know it can be done!
In California plastic bags have been banned from grocery stores and you now have to pay for paper bags if you do not bring your own reusable bags, which is super rad. Also in the automobile industry there has definitely been a shift towards consumers buying and wanting more eco friendly cars. Tesla has definitely been leading the field in this new push for electric vehicles and it has started to show.