Waking up on the Oregon Coast is a magical experience, and never gets old to me. A typical morning starts with fog rolling in off the ocean and getting caught in the trees. If I’m lucky, there will be little hits of sun rays shining through my woods. I live in a little cabin tucked away in the forest and a few minutes walk to the beach… so I wake up smelling and hearing the ocean. I make tea and enjoy the slow rise with my partner, Joey. I get most of my work done in the morning - I’m a freelance writer, producer, athlete/model, creative director, social media marketer, and founder of a boutique creative agency called Ninety Collective that also hosts 2 retreats a year internationally. I stay busy… Typically mid-day I’m ready to get away from the computer & phone, I’ll check the surf & spend the rest of my day in or near the ocean.
Which is your favourite break and why?
My favourite break is in my home town. Unfortunately, I can’t tell you what it’s called because I’d be socially banished by my surf community. It’s a punchy beach break where I got my first barrel, and you never forget a moment like that.
As a surfer, how do you maintain your health and fitness when also balancing work and family? For example, are you mindful about what you eat? Do you have a fitness/yoga routine?
Health and wellness is a huge part of my every day. It isn’t just about the food I eat and exercise routines, to me its a balance of mind, body, and soul. If my mental health & awareness isn’t balanced than nothing else really matters in my opinion. I do my best to maintain healthy relationships, strong community, habits, and work/life balance first and foremost. I try to keep away from toxic information, conversations, media, and news. If all’s balanced in that capacity then, of course, I’m full of vitality and able to surf, run, yoga, and perform better in almost anything.
I stay active 7 days a week by being in touch with nature. A healthy environment and time in nature are necessary for my well-being. As far as food & nutrition, I do my best to eat as pure as I can - meaning no processed, unnatural, or modified foods. I’ve been studying Ayurveda & Chinese medicine, trying to approach my eating habits with balance that’s right for my body type & lifestyle. I believe that nutrition is different for everyone and you have to be very in touch with your body to know what works best for you.
Climate crisis relates back to our health and what a small scope we have on how to take care of ourselves. Our environment is everything and all of it is connected. If we screw the bees, we screw ourselves. If we pollute the air, ocean & soil, we pollute our existence. We’re stuck in a very toxic and unaware way of life and it’s depressing if I think deep enough about it. I made the conscious choice to live, recreate, and thrive in a natural environment - I do not live in a city and never will because the result is a very fast-paced, numbing culture. I think if we can learn to take care of ourselves and this human crisis we’re in, then nurturing the planet will come in tandem with that.
What positive action have you seen where you live?
Portland is only an hour away from me and the banning of single-use plastic and overall awareness has been uplifting but we’ve got a long way to go.