In the morning I waaaake up! 😉 I check the waves on the webcam first. Then I walk my 2 Salvadorian dogs! Coffee and breakfast, if I have the time. Depending on the season, if I don’t work, I’ll go surf straight away! But I work in the summertime, so I have to adapt my schedule: dogs/surf/work. I watch as many sunsets as I can, it’s part of my happiness - No better way to end a day!
El Salvador is my favorite country for surfing. The waves are amazing. Mostly righthand pointbreaks, surrounded by amazing nature! The weather is nice, the water is warm and the locals are very welcoming. I went there for 2 weeks holiday, that turned into almost 3 years living on a fisherman’s beach at my favourite wave of all time, Las Flores. Just a perfect beautiful long wave!
I improved so much by surfing there everyday, and how do I miss it now! Can’t wait to go back there!
I’m not a professional surfer but surfing is everything to me. It changed my life in the most amazing way, and teaches me so much everyday.
When I travel, I eat local food which, depending on the country, could be healthy or not. I do eat lots of local fruits and veggies (which were delicious in El Salvador!) Also, fish and oysters from the local fishermen were a dream!
When travelling, I have more time for myself than when I work in France, so I take the time to stretch, practice yoga or workout a bit. It feels good! Even more when you are surfed out and your muscles are so tight after surfing all day!
It is scary.. but it’s not too late to act and do something. Our society consume too much of everything and never has enough… which doesn’t go the right way for our beautiful planet.
I try my best to buy local food, second hand clothes, eat less meat, to reduce my impact on the world but I know I can still do better…
We need to find solutions to leave the dirty fossils fuels behind and move on to affordable clean energy resources like wind and solar. And stop plastic!!! (also cigarettes buts)….
I first moved to Biarritz for an internship at Surfrider Foundation Europe. They do amazing work on 3 main thematics: marine litter, coastal development and climate change, water quality and health. Their levers of action are: education and awareness (that I used to do and was passionate about!) ; political advocacy; scientific and legal expertise.
Every year, they organise the Ocean Initiatives to clean up beaches, rivers and lakes everywhere in the world; Volunteers will join the movement to make people aware of the importance of protecting our waters and nature.